The Presidential Traverse is the stuff of hiking legend. It's not the longest trail in the White Mountains, and it's not the steepest. But somehow, it's become the benchmark—the hike that separates casual weekend warriors from serious mountain people.
The premise is simple: hike across all the major peaks of the Presidential Range in a single push. That means summiting Madison, Adams, Jefferson, Clay, Washington, Monroe, Eisenhower, and Pierce—eight 4000-footers in one day. You'll cover 20+ miles with 9,000+ feet of elevation gain, most of it above treeline in some of the most exposed terrain in the Northeast.
It sounds insane. It kind of is. But every year, hundreds of hikers complete it, and they all say the same thing: it was the hardest thing I've ever done, and I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
What You're Getting Into
Let's start with the hard numbers:
- Distance: 20-23 miles (depending on route)
- Elevation Gain: 8,500-9,500 feet
- Time: 12-18 hours
- Peaks: 8 (or more, depending on variations)
- Above Treeline: ~10 miles
The Peaks (North to South)
Mount Madison (5,367') - The first major climb from the north. Steep, rocky, and sets the tone for what's ahead.
Mount Adams (5,799') - Second highest in the Northeast, with stunning views into King Ravine.
Mount Jefferson (5,716') - A rocky summit with impressive views of the Great Gulf.
Mount Clay (5,533') - Technically an extension of Washington, but worth tagging.
Mount Washington (6,288') - The high point, literally and figuratively. Expect crowds and weird weather.
Mount Monroe (5,372') - Just past Lakes of the Clouds Hut, with excellent views south.
Mount Eisenhower (4,760') - A distinctive bald dome visible from miles away.
Mount Pierce (4,310') - The final summit before the long descent to Crawford Notch.
Planning Your Traverse
Direction: North to South or South to North?
Most hikers go north to south, starting at the Appalachia parking lot and finishing at Crawford Notch. Here's why:
- You get the hardest climbing (Madison, Adams) done while fresh
- The terrain generally gets easier as you tire
- Crawford Notch has better shuttle logistics
- You'll be hiking with the sun at your back in the afternoon
South to north is certainly doable, but you'll face the steep Madison descent on tired legs—not ideal.
Car Shuttle Logistics
The Presi Traverse is a point-to-point hike, which means you need two cars or a shuttle. Options:
- Two-car shuttle: Leave one car at Crawford Notch, drive to Appalachia
- Hiker shuttle services: Several local companies offer shuttle services—book in advance
- Friends/family: Have someone drop you off and pick you up
- Hitch: Not recommended, but some hikers do it
When to Go
The ideal window is late June through September. Earlier means possible snow on the ridgeline; later means shorter days and winter-like conditions.
For your first traverse, pick a day with:
- Clear forecast with winds under 25 mph
- No chance of thunderstorms
- Long daylight hours (June/July are best)
- Good visibility—what's the point of all that exposed ridge in fog?
Route Description
Appalachia to Madison (3.8 miles)
Start up Valley Way, the most straightforward path to Madison Spring Hut. The trail climbs steadily through beautiful forest, gaining 3,500 feet in about 3.8 miles. It's relentless but not technical.
At Madison Spring Hut, drop your pack (briefly), grab water if needed, and tag Madison's summit—it's just 0.5 miles up. Then return to the hut.
Madison to Adams (0.9 miles)
The short traverse to Adams follows the Gulfside Trail before climbing steeply to New England's second-highest summit. The scrambling here is fun, and the views are already world-class.
Adams to Jefferson (1.2 miles)
More exposed ridge walking along Gulfside. You'll pass the Thunderstorm Junction intersection—aptly named for when you should turn around if weather is deteriorating.
Jefferson to Washington (3.0 miles)
The Great Gulf drops away on your left as you traverse toward Washington. You'll pass over Clay (tag it for the purists) before the final push to Washington's crowded summit.
Take a real break here. Use the facilities. Eat something hot from the cafeteria. You're about halfway, and the next stretch demands respect.
Washington to Pierce (6.5 miles)
From Washington, descend to Lakes of the Clouds Hut, then climb Monroe. The Crawford Path takes you south over Eisenhower's distinctive dome and finally to Pierce. This section feels endless when you're tired, but the views of the southern Presidentials are magnificent.
Pierce to Crawford Notch (3.1 miles)
The Crawford Path descent is straightforward but long. Your legs will be screaming. Focus on each step, enjoy the return to treeline, and don't rush—this is where twisted ankles happen.
Gear and Nutrition
Essential Gear
- Headlamp (plus spare batteries): You might finish in the dark
- Full rain gear: Waterproof jacket AND pants
- Warm layers: Fleece, wind shell, hat, gloves—even in July
- 4+ liters of water: Fill up at huts when possible
- Sun protection: 10 miles above treeline means serious exposure
- Trekking poles: Your knees will thank you
- First aid basics: Blister kit, pain relievers, tape
Nutrition Strategy
This hike burns 5,000-7,000 calories. You need to eat constantly:
- Before: Big breakfast 2 hours before starting
- During: 200-300 calories per hour—gels, bars, sandwiches, trail mix
- Salt: Electrolyte tabs or salty snacks to prevent cramping
- Real food at huts: Madison and Lakes of the Clouds sell snacks—take advantage
If you stop feeling hungry, eat anyway. Bonking on the Presi is miserable.
Pacing and Time Management
Target Times
For a fit hiker completing in 14-16 hours:
- Start: 4:00-5:00 AM
- Madison summit: 8:00-9:00 AM
- Washington summit: 12:00-1:00 PM
- Pierce summit: 4:00-5:00 PM
- Crawford Notch: 6:00-8:00 PM
Turnaround Points
Set firm turnaround times before you start. If you're not on Washington by 2:00 PM, you need to consider bailing out early. Better to call it than finish in the dark with deteriorating weather.
Bail-Out Options
If things go wrong, you have options:
- Madison Spring Hut: Descend Valley Way or Watson Path
- Washington summit: Take the Auto Road or Cog Railway down
- Lakes of the Clouds: Descend Ammonoosuc Ravine
- Eisenhower: Edmands Path descends to the west
Know these escape routes before you start.
Training for the Traverse
The Presi Traverse isn't something you walk up to cold. You need to be in excellent hiking shape. Here's how to prepare:
Build Your Base
- Complete at least 10-15 hikes of 8+ miles with 3,000+ feet of gain
- Do several back-to-back hiking days to simulate cumulative fatigue
- Practice hiking at a steady pace for 10+ hours
Test Yourself
Before attempting the full traverse, try these challenging single-day hikes:
- Franconia Ridge Loop - 9 miles, 3,900 feet
- Pemigewasset Loop - 18+ miles, 4,500+ feet
- Washington via Tuckerman + Great Gulf descent - 11 miles, 4,500 feet
If you can't complete these comfortably, you're not ready for the Presi.
Mental Preparation
At some point around mile 15, you will want to quit. Every Presi hiker hits this wall. The ones who finish are the ones who expected it and pushed through anyway.
Common Mistakes
1. Starting Too Late
A 7:00 AM start is already late. You want to summit Washington before early afternoon to avoid weather and have buffer time.
2. Not Eating Enough
By the time you feel hungry, you're already behind on calories. Eat early and often, even if you don't feel like it.
3. Underestimating the Weather
The Presidential Range has some of the worst weather in the world. A forecast that looks fine at the base can mean survival conditions on the ridge. Check the Higher Summits Forecast and be prepared to postpone.
4. Neglecting Training
This isn't Franconia Ridge. You can't just "tough it out" if you're not prepared. Train properly or pay the price.
5. Going Solo Without Experience
Your first traverse should be with experienced partners. The navigation, pacing, and decision-making are much easier with a group.
Quick Reference: Presidential Traverse
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Distance | 20-23 miles (point to point) |
| Elevation Gain | 8,500-9,500 feet |
| Time | 12-18 hours |
| Peaks | Madison, Adams, Jefferson, Clay, Washington, Monroe, Eisenhower, Pierce |
| Direction | North to South recommended |
| Start | Appalachia parking area |
| End | Crawford Notch |
The Presidential Traverse is the White Mountains' ultimate challenge. It will test your fitness, your mental toughness, and your respect for mountain weather. But when you're standing on Pierce's summit at the end of the day, looking back at the ridge you just crossed, you'll understand why people keep coming back to this legendary hike.
